Dear Reader
According to the Hindu Calendar, the month beginning from Balipadayami of Deepavali and ending with Krishna Paksha Amavasya or the New Moon Day of the second half of the month is 'Karthika Maasa' (month). This is considered one of the holiest months in the lunisolar Hindu calendar. Thus, this has no exact corresponding month-date in the Gregorian Calendar. This month is loved by Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. With all due respect, it is one of those rare occasions where two divine oppositional forces have come together amicably to bless their devotees 😇) The month has many festivals and auspicious days. Mondays especially are believed to be beloved to Lord Shiva; a pair of mud lamps are kept lit on the threshold of the front door every evening and near the Tulsi Plant--a mark of seeking the blessings of Lord Vishnu who wakes from his Yoga Nidra in this month.
Having charted such divine aspects of this month, let me say that the focus of this post is the humble aspects of celebrating some puny little vegetables and fruits that are specialities of this month--like? Like peanuts and nellikayi/amla/ Indian Wild Gooseberry😁 which are neither so puny nor ignorable.
Let me focus on groundnuts for now. Here are some nutritional facts--nutritionists agree that groundnuts are a poor man's almond--filling, nutritious and yes, delicious. Can one imagine South Indian foods like poha, Puliogare, and the (in)famous lemon rice without groundnuts? And who will not vouch for the famed Groundnut Chutneypudi of Hubbali? And, who can resist the salted & steamed groundnut, with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of masala on this cold November evening? Not to forget the delicious chikki from Lonavala!! If ever one thinks it is such a local legume, a gentle reminder of the global market of peanut butter!! And, January 24 is celebrated as the national day of peanut butter in the US. All this spread of taste is in addition to its (approximate) nutritional value/100gm--25.8% of the daily requirement of protein, healthful fat, dietary fibre, along with minerals and vitamins.
Cut to the present. The 21st of this month was the last Monday of the Karthika Masa of this year. And the special reason to mention this is that 'Kadalekayi Parshe' or the 'Groundnut Fair' is held in Basavanagudi Bengaluru on the last Monday of Karthikamasa. Along with farmers from surrounding villages of Bangalore, farmers from distant villages in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh come here to offer groundnuts to the 'Dodda Basava' or the Big Bull.
There is an interesting tale here. The story goes like this: once upon a time, a big bull used to ravage the groundnut farms, devouring the crop ready for harvest. To protect their harvest, the farmers prayed to Nandi the divine carrier of Lord Shiva, vowing to offer the first harvest to Him. It is believed that the ritual of offering groundnut saved the groundnut harvest. Though the idol itself is dated back to the 9th century, it was Kempe Gowda, a ruler, who built a temple around the statue of the Big Bull in 1537. Apart from the legend, the idol of Nandi is an architectural wonder. Carved out of a single boulder, the idol is 15 feet in height and 21 feet in length and, I am told that the carvings follow the Vijayanagar style.
Now, if you think that this is an ordinary village fair, a thousand apologies, NO!!! Why do I say this?! First, no fair in India can be or is a simple affair. It inevitably is rooted in a myth; later on, endorsed by a local King, it acquires historical significance and then goes on to become a part of the global market in the contemporary. This is a discernible general pattern of our local histories. Isn't it?
It is my ritualistic habit to visit the fair every year (though am not intentionally ritualistic) to come here, buy groundnuts, enjoy the medley and be rejuvenated. When I went there again this time, I could see a lot of changes, especially in the products that are brought here to be sold. For example, artificial flowers, flower pots, locally made artefacts and statues of Buddha, Krishna etc. These new additions added a different flavour to the dominant natural fragrance of raw groundnuts. The new flavour is that of the urban trends--in the form of flower vases, artificial flowers, steamed American sweetcorn and other such products making their presence felt in this fair. Right now, it is interesting to see the fair as the site of rural-urban negotiations, creating a mutually beneficial space. And, as long as groundnut sellers come here fulfilling their religious-spiritual seeking, the Parshe will be an interesting place💓.
Let me share my most memorable experiences at the fair. The first one happened in October 2014. I saw a group of groundnut sellers sitting beside each other and sharing good fun. As I bought groundnuts from a lady who was with this group, I started an informal conversation about where they come from etc. I could do this only because it was early evening around 4.30 pm. At this time, they were comparatively free, and relaxed; the crowd had not yet begun to gather. They said they have come from "a remote village in Tanjore Desha"('Desha'means nation) and shared the hardships they faced to reach the place etc. From what they described, this was no less than a pilgrimage. The lady said "I have left my family behind to come and offer the first harvest here. It is a long and hard journey; we camp here only for two days." I said, "Then, how do you manage to come here every year?" The lady said "Oh, we need the blessing and the protection of divine Nandi. It is His blessing that our harvest this year too is so good. I had decided that I will come here this year to offer Him the first harvest. And selling here is as sacred as going to the temple with offerings". Needless to say, their piety left me speechless. This conversation has remained with me as a constant reminder of the significance of cultural memory and the central role it plays in preserving the human, preventing an 'identity freeze' of Bangalore as the Silicone city, the IT hub.
Generally, Indian fairs are distinctly multilayered because of a very unique way the sacred and the profane occupy the place at once. Of course, no two fairs are the same-just like the food that tastes different when made by different people. So, in 2017, when I embarked on this pilgrimage once again (because it is part of my routine to come to this fair every year) I met a 'businessman' who was selling hand-embroidered clutches. By now the fair included not just the pious farmers but included a little something for everybody. For example, some aspiring business people were selling simple everyday household requirements viz. the pickle jars, locally made porcelain ware, ladles and rolling pins made from local wood which are pretty attractive, some cast-iron vessels etc. Along with this, there was something fanciful for women-- like handmade jewellery and purse, and of course, balloons and toys for children; and the attractive, colourful candy floss for all!! As I was walking down the street, looking at everything, I saw a seller who was selling hand-embroidered clutches. I saw that they were colourful, beautifully hand embroidered and made with good quality cloth and zip etc. The man who was selling it said each one cost 300rs. But the unwritten law of purchase at fairs like this is that one has to religiously bargain. If you don't, then, people around will tell you that you are a fool or else you are that traitor who is responsible for the price rise😏 So, following this unwritten rule, I bargained and said 240 rupees knowing well that he will agree to sell it at 270rs 😆 Immediately he asked 'Akka, how many do you want?' This question got me all enthusiastic and thought of all the people who I know would love to have this and said 10. And smiling condescendingly he said 'Okay, I will give it to you for 2900 rupees for ten clutches'. By now, some more women had gathered around this sale. I and the people around joined in a cheerful camaraderie saying it was too much and other women saw a good opportunity to join in and continued the bargain. And then, finally, he came up with a winner 'Akka if I sell it to you at that rate, my wife who embroiders and makes these clutches will beat me and throw me out of my home'. Now, there could not be any counter-argument 💥 and he finally agreed to sell at rs280/clutch!! So much for 'all for one and one for all!!!' Here are those two beauties I have preserved👇
Jump cut to 22/11/2022. I met another feisty lady. It is customary to buy groundnuts in 'parshe'. So casually I went to this lady to buy some groundnuts. She cautioned me,20rs per 1 seer. (A seer is a unit of measurement; equivalent to the metric unit of one litre.) So, I asked her to pack 2 seers of groundnut. And then I looked at the seer she used to measure and saw that it is actually a half-seer. I said, 'That's not one, it's half a seer'. She simply said, 'Madam, this only is one-seer for 'kadalekayi parshe' and if you don't have a change,' she showed me the QR scanner and said, 'Do Paytm!!' If ever I doubted the dynamism of women enterpreneurs😍😎 but, of course, in this situation, I paid the exact amount for the correct measurement in Paytm😅
Dear Reader, going to a fair is undoubtedly a part of religious ritual; but, the pleasure and revelation of different faces of oneself and people is a rich experience to cherish. Here is a collage of Kadalekayi Parshe from my camera. . .
Going global with digital transfer of money🙏
This is no 'rose garden' of Ooty. These are artificial flowers for home/office decor 👉
Here is candy floss for those who love it 👇
And moving on to global flavour, can one forget Charlie Brown of Peanut!? And, he's not anyway away from how I feel at times😀😀
You could share your comments directly with me to rekhadatta02@gmail.com or message me @rekhadatta1 on Instagram. I shall send the links to you personally. Thanks for your patience.
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